New York, the city that never sleeps. So where the fuck is everyone? I'm stood on a roadside in Queens at 4am, and every shop has bulletproof glass over the windows. I'm trying to withdraw every last penny I have from the cash machine to give to a racist cab driver.
I had scraped my way out of Colombia and onto the flight to JFK. Before I got on the plane I sent an email from a tobacco shop manager's phone. It was autocorrecting to Spanish, so it really looked like it had been written by someone else. A kidnapper's ruse. I knew my mother would be horrified.
On arrival in the US I was lightly toasted about my sojourn in the jungle, and narrowly managed to avoid revealing my lack of any idea of what was about to happen. I ran out of the airport into a vast car park. An overweight Sikh asked me if I needed a taxi. Newark Airport, I said. I knew time was tight - I had two and a half hours to be on the next plane. I also knew that my funds were dwindling, and I was unable to check exactly how much I had left, having lost my phone in Colombia. I didn't let on. He asked me which terminal I needed, but I had no clue. Europe, probably it's gonna be terminal two. He explained that there was a long drive between all the terminals, so, better be right, hey? Brilliant. We got in the car and he immediately started to tell me about Noo yoik ciddy, some motherfuckers will pull a gun on you, no reason, black motherfuckers, you lucky you found me, kid... I was still on the verge of being sick due to raging anxiety and panic. Now I had to listen to this guy's racist bullshit for two hours. I diverted the conversation on to how I always wanted to come to NYC to see some jazz. I'm a musician, you see... But he kept going back to his hustle, lazy motherfuckers don't wanna hustle, this fuckin ciddy fulla them... even musicians gotta hustle ya know...
Eventually I plucked up the courage to ask how much it was going to cost. Three hunna dollas. I went red and began to feel faint. My eyes were popping out of my head. I've got £200 in my bank, I'll give you all of it, I can send you more when I get home... He stopped the car and pressed a button. The sliding door opened next to me. There's an ATM ova hee. Geddout, see whatchu got. I gotta hustle, man. I like to help motherfuckers too but two hunna dollas ain't nothin for an airport transfer.
That's how I ended up in Queens. I tried a corner shop that also sold hot biryani. The cash machine was going to charge me $25 dollars just to withdraw. I went down the street to the bank. The cab driver watched me from the car window. I had by that point accepted my fate as a new member of the drifter community of New York. At least I had a big bag to lie on. Only the third machine I tried worked. I took out $195, all I had, and gave it to him. He counted it and started up the car. Imma need a picture of ya passport, kid. You gotta pen? You gonna transfer me a hunna dollas, I don' forget a face, you come back Noo Yoik imma find ya. I promised I would, writing down his details. I asked him, please, please man, can you wait outside the terminal in case it's the wrong one? He grimaced. Nope. We slid towards the huge sprawl of Newark Airport. As soon as we stopped I burst out of the car, grabbed my bags and ran. He shouted the name of his bank after me as I span through the revolving door.
There was no one around inside the terminal. I asked a cleaner where the London flight might be. She told me nothing was open yet. I decided to try another terminal, and went to get the monorail that ran between them. As the sun came up over the view of New York, I finally had a full-on panic attack on the train. I tried to be sick but nothing came up. I stumbled out of the carriage into a huge queue of people at a check-in desk for Lufthansa. May as well give it a go, I thought. After fifteen minutes I reached the stern woman at the desk and asked her where the London flight was. There is no London flight. We don't do London.
OK, any idea who does? Where should I be?
She became irate and I walked away. I could sleep a few nights in the airport, recharge, beg a few coins and use the payphone to call my parents. I went back to the first terminal and enjoyed the sublime sunrise view on the way. The cleaner was gone, but some of the previously empty desks had people at them now. A kind but pessimistic man told me I'd need to run to terminal three, and check in my big backpack, only $100. My voice cracked as I said, a hundred... I've got no money, nothing, I...
I sprinted back to the monorail.
Another queue - for my flight this time. Out of breath, I had arrived at the gate with five minutes to spare, and proceeded to open my backpack and put all my clothes on. A couple of t-shirts, two jumpers, two jackets (I had taken some of TW's heavier items back with me as a favour), my swimming trunks, two pairs of trousers, and a load of shirts on top. The heating was cranked and I sweated profusely. I looked insane, but now the backpack crumpled into a ball I could easily stash under my seat. I waited to be told I'd have to pay anyhow. My hope of getting home was so low, it felt more like an unfunny prank to try and get on the plane, but what the hell.
The sense of relief that passed over me as I sat in my seat, on an empty row nonetheless, is to this day the greatest moment of my life. I was involuntarily laughing out loud for a good ten minutes. I should probably get out more. It was a nice plane too, the nicest I'd ever been on. I took full advantage of all the services, films, food, blankets and eye masks.
When I arrived at Heathrow, I took my notebook out and called my mum from a payphone using the last £1 coin in my wallet. We're here, we're here! Her voice was shaky on the phone. We're coming up from the car, me and Dad. I sputtered some strange laughing sobs and slumped down next to the payphone. I never sent that racist cunt the cash.