"The longer I think about it the more it seems to me that we who are still alive are unreal in the eyes of the dead, that only occasionally, in certain lights and atmospheric conditions, do we appear in their field of vision." - W. G. Sebald

13/03/24

notes from the heart of the world pt 4


I left TW on the coast eating street sausage and set off south. My shoes were ready to die. Man, they were the tits. Two red and gold, motherfuckers... anyway. I was going back down to the big city, which spiraled at the bottom of a cluster of dark green mountains. A five-mile underground tunnel took me back into the metropolis. There was no rain but the car windows were wet from condensation. The whole city felt like being in a bath. I could feel the steam rolling off the peaks and onto my head. It made me feel dumb and tired, which was good preparation for my return to London. 

I slept in a capsule in an expensive hostel, and thought, what a clever bit of marketing that it's now 'cool' to stay in a tiny box. Everything I had was with me in there, and I crumpled up in the corner and listened to American varsity blockheads talk sincerely to each other about 'ass' all night. I tried my best to find things to do the next day before my evening flight. I walked two miles one way, then the other. I looked up a place to eat and walked there, only to find it was inside an enourmous shopping mall, and it was all a mock-up, made to look old and weathered. The food was expensive and small, and the waiter scowled when I ordered the cheapest two items on the menu. I knew I had $250 left to get myself to the airport and then from JFK in New York to the airport in New Jersey. This seemed like plenty, but in the case of a hiccup I'd need a decent wedge to pay for an extra night on the way. In place of anything to do I meticulously planned my transfer. JFK to Newark would take an hour and a half. I had two hours to make it. I decided against the subway - it would be four in the morning and I had no bearings in NYC. A cab would be better. Maybe I'd even have time to pick up a McDonald's. I made a folder in my phone and saved all my boarding passes and other documents, like the immigration form I would need to leave the country.

I left the hostel four hours before my flight. The taxi ride took around forty minutes, and the driver was not chatty. I felt solid, well planned, like a businessman going through the motions of his usual international engagements. I stepped out of the car into the busy street outside the airport. The driver slowly pulled away, and I went to pull out my phone and check my gate time. My phone. My phone is on the seat of the taxi. MY PHONE IS IN THE CAB. I sprinted towards the car, which was still in the drop-off area outside, and it sped up. I must have done a hundred meters behind it before I began to cough and splutter. I let it go. I talked to myself at full volume and paced around. My tickets, the times and terminals of the flights, and my immigration papers only existed in the folder on my phone. A family stopped me and asked what was wrong. I tried to explain in bad Spanish. No joy. Mi telefona es perdido. I tried calling the cab driver from the mother's phone but it went to the main office. They would return my lost property in 1-2 weeks where possible. Great. I didn't know my own number, as I got the SIM changed to a cheap travel one on arrival. I went to the help desk and asked if I could sign into my email account so I could see all my documents, but I couldn't do it because I had to verify my identity by text message. 

My anxiety at this point was so high it felt like I was in a room with a huge swinging blade that could cut me in half at random. I dodged and ducked appropriately, which made me look even more suspicious and deranged. Eventually came the call for my gate. With no hope whatsoever I decided to go through the motions a real person would, a person who had tickets and immigration papers. For some sinister reason I was the only person in the entire customs section that evening. It was the opposite of what I had bargained for. The only slim chance I'd make it through would be if I blended in with some large group of idiot gringos travelling my way. Well, what did I have to lose. At least if they detained me I'd have somewhere to sleep. I tried to look relaxed as I walked up to the two people at the bag scanner. 

Evening. 

Good evening, sir. 

Trundling noises. Electrical buzzing. 

You are from...? 

England, London. 

Ahhh, London! I like to learn about geography, my family living in Derby, Nottingham. I been to Leeds also. 

Oh, wow! Midlands, yeah. 

...

An' Scotlan', what the capital is there? Glasgow? 

Edinburgh. 

Edeen...brurj... 

Edinburgh, yeah. 

The guy was taking notes in a little book. He'd done a sketch of the UK with place names written on it. He was a genuine geography enthusiast. Liberpool... Manchesterrr... Jork... 

I picked up my bag, smiling now, and showed my passport at the desk. I was buzzing. I sauntered towards the departure lounge - 

SIR!

My breathing stopped. I was dead, I was done for. 

What is capital of Irelan'? 

I turned and smiled weakly. 

Dublin. 









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